Winter climbing in the northern Cairngorm.
Hopefully the new year will bring good conditions for mixed climbing, with frozen turf and rimed up rock or better still the ice will be in on Creag Meagidh? One way to find out!

We are staying at the SLC hut in Newtonmore which is well situated for both Megy and the northern Corries. The last three seasons I’ve always managed to get plenty out of a January trip to the Cairngorm, last year my self and Rob Beck got three routes done in the January weekend – Pygmy ridge, Fingers ridge and Aladdin’s Mirror direct. I’d like to say we made it home for tea but we didn’t get out of the Corrie until dark and ended up with cheeseboard on the dashboard all the way home. If avalanche forecast is low Shelter stone or Lochan could be on the cards as haven’t made it into either of them on previous trips. Get in touch, get booked on, get psyched, pray to the winter gods and let’s get it done.

Ed Bloomfield