September 2011 Newsletter
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Oread Mountaineering Club Newsletter September 2011 |
Diamond Solitaire 1967 ( P.Bingham)
Editorial. (Last Date for October edition 26/09/11)
This month is always a nice time. The heat of summer has gone and people are back at work leaving those of us who have done our 50 years to enjoy the quiet time of early Autumn. Those lucky enough to be able to get the time off will no doubt be away to Lundy this month. We also have the last outdoor meet, soon comes round doesn’t it?
Lundy - September 10th to 17th.
Derek Pike.
The Barn has been booked from the 10th Sept. to the 17th Sept. 2011. It accommodates just fourteen people. The club has been here many times before and we have found the climbing superb. Lundy lies off the coast of North Devon, where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Bristol Channel with nothing between it and America, a granite outcrop, three and a half miles long and half a mile wide. It is the UK’s first Marine Reserve. Some of the climbs are in the league of best in Britain. Albion and Diamond Solitaire being excellent VS routes, with the classic Devil’s Slide to keep them company at VDiff. Getting there is by boat, the MS Oldenburg runs Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from Bideford and Ilfracombe.
From Paul Bingham :- Jean and I went with a group from Bradford University (we were both at Leicester uni) around Easter 1967 while the Torrey Canyon was aground, leaking oil and being bombed by the RAF whose route took them low over Lundy. Prior to our visit there were only 21 routes on the entire island! To quote the guidebook “............ a visit from a strong team from Bradford University in 1967, a forerunner of the mass invasions of later years. They covered a lot of new ground, climbing fourteen new routes in the process,” (five involving the Binghams) “and perhaps their most significant discovery was a new crag north of The Fortress which they christened, rather topically, Torrey Canyon. Amongst all of these routes, Stingray remained the hardest climb on the island for quite some time by dint of its strenuous nature and the disintegrating state of its rock”.
Integrity (severe) The first ascent, 29 March 1967 (D.Brown) & Devil’s Slide (J.Bingham) 1967.
Wednesday 21st September Last Evening Meet and Balti.
Simon Pape
Do you remember April, when it was warm and sunny? Well, we missed the opportunity to have an end-of-summer curry meet, so we’re reverting to the normal September slot. You know the drill. Climbing on one of the local crags (Hall Moor Quarry is really very, very good) followed by a curry at the Balti in Matlock Bath, starting at 8:00pm.
Let me know if you’re interested so I can book a big enough table.
Winter Lectures at the Royal Oak 4th October 2011
Paul Bingham. “Birds in the Hills”
His talk will cover mainly UK hill/wild areas but also a few relevant pictures from more distant regions such as Svalbard, Iceland, Patagonia, New Zealand, Himalayas, Falklands, Antarctica, Ethiopia
62nd Annual Dinner – Preliminary Notice.
Saturday The 19th of November 2011.
Richard Hopkinson.
Please make sure you’ve got this date in your diary.
This year’s annual dinner will again be held at The Bluebell Inn, Tissington on Saturday 19th of November, 18.30 onwards to sit down at 19.30. The cost is £17.00 per person or £13.50 per child, for 3 courses (a cheese course can be included for an extra £1.50 per person)
The menu and other details will be published with the October Newsletter.
If anybody has any questions please don't hesitate to contact me, my home
telephone is ##### ######, I’m also on email at #####@######.## .
At present we do not have a guest speaker. Getting one seems to get more difficult each year, and even when you think you have one they can let you down, as we found out last year, when Jack Ashcroft “stepped so ably into the breach”. I am giving this some thought, but if anyone has any contacts or ideas I would be pleased to hear from you.
Re accommodation if anybody wants to stay overnight there is plenty in the area although not at the Bluebell, and there wasn’t a problem last year with parking camper vans in the car park.
There will be a walk on the Sunday providing somebody offers to lead it, so again I would appreciate a volunteer.
News, Articles and Reports from Meets.
Walk and Climb the Edges Meet – 21 May 2011 Gill Male
We made it. Another Oread Walk and Climb the Edges meet. A major triumph, eh! In response, 13 people turned up with enthusiasm, energy and various styles of dress and humour.
Now things are never that simple. Let’s remember that rules are for fools and it’s a wise one who knows how to interpret them. A change of plan was suggested, not by one but by a large proportion of those who turned up! The miner’s strike of 1984/85 came to mind and the fact that confrontation was probably not the best action. So I adopted the Sir Humphrey approach showing compassion and care by listening to the eloquently expressed opinions of not one but several of the “wimps”. Once I started listening it was soon apparent that the “wimp’s” suggestion to start walking from Stanage High Neb rather than the Sheffield/Glossop road has many merits. High in the list of these was that we would get the cars back earlier after the walk so socialising in the Robin Hood would not be unduly interrupted. I was swayed by the undoubted logic or was it that the beggars knew how to get round me!
So let’s go for it. Stanage, Burbage North, Burbage South – Grouse Inn. Froggatt, Curbar, Gardoms, Birchens Edge – Robin Hood. The importance of making the pubs at the allotted times was stressed and then everyone set off together in unison up the Roman road leading from the car park below High Neb. Amongst us were 9 Oread members (Chris and Jan Wilson, Dave “Snod” Helliwell, Ruth Gordon, Simon Pape, Mike Hayes, Chris and Gill Radcliffe and me) and 4 friends (Jo “Smiffy” Astill, Paul and Jill Whittaker and John Gregory). We were a cohesive bunch of mutually supportive friends and the sunny weather and Derbyshire views did much to support this. That was until we reached Stanage popular end.
Chris on Apple Buttress. Gill on April Crack
It’s a funny thing. When climbing starts a sort of underhanded competitiveness appears. This is supported by each individual’s characteristics be they friendly, determined, eccentric or enthusiastically awkward and the need to get to the pub on time (beer). A great recipe for mickey taking don’t you think? It certainly turned out that way. “OK everyone let’s do our first climb of the day. Hope you enjoy it. See you soon.” (friendly). So we climb our first route of the day. Coiling the ropes we felt happy and smug. No one else could be seen. Then we realised that the others may just be out of sight. Better get a move on! Can’t be last! (determined). So off we go across the moor meeting up with others as they appear at the crag top or on the path trying to get a lead (enthusiastically awkward).
Burbage North next. By coincidence we all headed to the Knight’s Move area. Hang on where are Simon and Mike and the Radders’ (Chris and Gill)? Well, Simon and Mike had decided to do Carls Wark rather than Burbage North (eccentric). The Radders’ couldn’t count because they did 2 climbs on Stanage (determined). This slowed progress but not for long. Dust on the horizon and then within seconds they both appeared and stormed to the top of Knights Move. Next stop Burbage South.
We were travelling at speed down the path towards the Fox House and Burbage Quarry when Pete Holden, bearded and in shorts, was spotted. He was out soloing 30 or was it 30 thousand routes before dinner. It gave us the chance to take the mick out of him (friendly) and to be fair he gave more than his fair share back (determined). It’s amazing what you pick up on a day stroll in Derbyshire. 
Fox House Flake.
Again by coincidence we all, including Pete, arrived in Burbage Quarry. We vied for position on Fox House Flake (enthusiastically awkward). Chris and Ruth were first up as would befit the President – see photo. The rest of us then jostled each other and got it done as quickly as possible because the Grouse was waiting. Things were starting to improve.
After lunch (beer) things were much easier. Two thirds of the distance had been covered and we were all suitably fuelled. The Radders’ did Chequers Buttress on Froggatt which shows the healing power of the amber nectar and Curbar soon passed before the teams met up again at the Apple Buttress area of Gardoms Edge. Apple Buttress got a bashing and we all agreed that we would be pleased to get to Birchens Edge and within striking distance of the Robin Hood. Considerable competiveness then broke loose as everyone appeared to head at high speed towards Birchens Edge (determined). Gill lead Monument Gully Buttress and Smiffy led Topsail which were good efforts after 12½ miles of walking and at least 6 other climbs. Then we all regrouped and headed to the Robin Hood.
Many thanks to Simon for running us back round to High Neb to pick up the cars and hiding from these photos. Also, to Radders for the photos, in particular the one showing the Presidents face when he is delayed from getting his next pint.
All that is left to say is that everyone said they had enjoyed the day and wanted the meet to be repeated next year. I’m up for it! How about you? You too could join us in the Robin Hood with tales of daring do and exploration. Just remember never let the truth stand in the way of a good story and always be willing to accuse selected individuals of being enthusiastically awkward if you want a good wind up. They normally give back as much as they get.
Gogarth Meet, 25/26th (ish) June, 2011.
Dave Mawer
With a less than a perfect weather forecast, a contingent of the Rock climbing and Campervan section of the Oread Mountaineering Club assembled at the Valley of the Rocks Campsite near Treaddur bay. Snod, Pete Lancaster, Chris Wilson and Richard Hopkinson had already received a soaking on Friday afternoon during a bid to climb. Instead they settled for Tennis and beer in the Campsite pub with the Mowbrays. Please ask Snod for clarification of rules and scoring.
After torrential rain overnight on Friday the start to the weekend was decidedly dank, however the keenness for adventure could be sensed. Throughout Saturday the weather improved and the numbers grew with the addition of Team Radcliffe after the purchase of a new lilo. The sun even shone for an hour or two. Oreads were seen on Sind, Pentathol, Scavenger, The Strand, The Ramp, The Gauntlet and Phagocyte. Our Vice President displayed his mettle as he clocked up some flying hours due to wet rock and Simon Pape got a bit too close to the “splashy” sea (he’s after that award again!). Wine, beer, strawberries and cream and cheese and biscuits were enjoyed by the revellers late into Saturday night.
Simon and Richard on A Dream of White Horses. Snod on Concrete Chimney.
With a Met Office heat wave weather warning, Sunday surprisingly dawned to blue skies and sunshine and steam could clearly be seen rising above the cliffs of Craig Gogarth. The Mawer’s opted for Icarus and The Sun at Rhoscolyn to allow an early retreat whilst the rest, most of whom had an extra day headed to Wen Zawn. Simon and Richard traversed A Dream of White Horses whilst Chris, Snod and Pete climbed Concrete Chimney. When Simon departed for home the presidential entourage scaled Spider Wall just around the corner. Chris and Gill were also part of the throng and enjoyed Wen and Concrete Chimney. Meanwhile the strong Mowbray/Monks partnership left all in their wake with an ascent of Citadel on the Main cliff.
Gill on Wen.
Monday brought unappealing weather but Team Radcliffe braved the elements at Castle Helen with an ascent of Lighthouse Arete Direct. In contrast to Gogarth, the president’s team went bolt clipping on the A55.
The meet was a great success, thanks to all who made it so!
An Early Visit to the Alps. July 3rd to 17th.
John Green.
After zero summits at the Oread Meet last year I decided that it may be better to go to the Alps at the beginning of July as the snow may be better and the weather could not be much worse! So it was that Nick Moyes and I set off across France in the usual way, saving money by bivving at the roadside on day 1. We went through the Mont Blanc Tunnel and arrived safe and sound in the Val Veni at a nice little campsite called “La Sorgente”. It was basic to say the least, but we warmed to it during our stay, especially when we found the price included use of the mountain bikes by the café!
We decided that a suitable warm up and acclimatisation route would be the ascent of a peak called Mont Chetif at 2343 mtrs. It was a great little scramble and well worth the effort, especially when we were greeted by two Marmots on the summit ridge.
Our next foray was to the Petit Mont Blanc, a small summit on the ridge to the Trelatete. We stayed for two nights, at no cost, in the Giovane Montagne Bivvy Hut at 3047 mtrs. The next day we climbed the easy summit to 3424 mtrs. Any thoughts of going on to the “Big Stuff” being dashed when we found the ridges were ice, some Swiss friends at the bivvy turned back after a long attempt.
Summit of Mont Chetif 2343 mtrs Giovane Montagne Hut 3047 mtrs
Now we were ready for an attempt at Mont Dolent, our main objective. Again we used a bivvy hut, The Fiorio Bivvy 2724mtrs. The slog up “the steep slope” was hard, being mostly shale and loose at that. The hut was pleasant and we started out at first light, as usual for peaks of this height. The snow was still soft and the altitude was making its presence felt! After following a track around the crevassed glacier we arrived at the main problem of the route, the bergshrund. Nick made light work of it and we carried on to the loose couloir. Not a pleasant place! Steep loose and dangerous! At the top was the summit ridge which made it all worthwhile. Solid granite with a few bits of snow, it led quickly to the Madonna and the final top. 3823 mtrs. The only disappointment was the mist, which would not clear over the Argentiere Glacier. The descent was slow, due to bad knees and snow balling under crampons. Back at the camp the local wine was excellent.
On Wednesday we had our only wet day and stayed in camp recuperating.
A mountain bike ride to the Elisabetta Soldini Hut at 2258 mtrs on Thursday was a change from the usual and well worth the slog up for the run down!
On our return journey we crossed the Petit St Bernard Pass and climbed the Lancebranlette at 2936 mtrs, quite a walk.
All in all a fine two weeks in the mountains in company with some of the best alpine flowers I’ve seen. My thanks to Nick Moyes for making it happen.
Mont Dolent 3823 mtrs After the bergshrund!
Dolomites 2011 Roger Gibbs.
From Passo Giau, Gusela (2595m) beams down in the bright sunshine. We shouldered our packs and set off up a broad tourist track. Picking our way past tourists with a smile, we scrambled up to the base of the wall. Several moderate pitches led to a broad bay below the meat of the route.
Simon on Cinque Torre Sharon on South Rib of Little Falzarego
A bendy peg smiled at me from the right wall of a round cave. It stuck out three inches so the protection it offered was dubious at best but at least I knew I was on the right line. I clipped it and reached past to the friendly port hole. Hunched up under the roof of the cave I struggled to get my feet on the ledges leading right and out into the continuation groove/corner. Feet sliding I smiled wryly down at the ancient ironmongery as I scrabbled untidily out into the bay. Now where was that belay? I fished out a tattered topo. Was the bendy peg actually the stance? I pushed on a bit further and found a bit more fixed gear.
Belayed in comfort, Sharon started to follow and I gazed around. The chimney above me leaned out and widened to an alarming chasm. There was supposed to be a slab alternative around here somewhere wasn’t there? Sharon arrived and muttered something about it all looking desperate. She might have a point. I set off up the right wall of the chimney and made a stride across onto the slabbier left wall. Above it steepened but a decent peg winked at me. I clipped in and made haste towards the sanctuary of a large ledge system. Peering down the 80 or 90 feet to Sharon, I could see the sum total of the protection was that solitary peg.
Above me and to the right the lads were snapping at the heels of an Italian guided party of three. I shouted to Simon and he replied that they were on pitch7 of their route. I stared at the topo again. I reckon we should have been joining them higher up and from the other side. Apart from that I was bang on. Oh well their line looked good and wasn’t any harder now they’d knocked off the earlier crux pitches. We bashed on in their tracks with good protection and solid rock.
Sharon on South Rib of Little Falzarego Graham on “Sudkante” Punta Alpini (V)
We had now reached a larger terrace with easier climbing, needing care to avoid dislodging any loose material. The line took a long rising diagonal to outflank the looming headwall. I could see the other teams, but by the time Sharon had led through to the base of a groove/crack system, they had vanished.
The way on looked straightforward and I climbed quickly to a large ledge. Above a protectionless slab led to an alarming two foot overlap. The equally appealing alternative was a dank, chimney with no holds or protection. I traversed right and left looking for an easier option. Blimey the boys had flashed up this, they were going well. I climbed gingerly up the slab on some crumbly holds and peered at the overlap. It looked hard and the rock was suspect. I had no runners in the last thirty feet. The sun disappeared and rain threatened. Well I had wanted an adventure. Finally I spotted a friendly yellow peg and hauled over a steep step to easier ground, a belay and a view of the top.
Perched on the summit, Graham and Simon shouted encouragement in the way that England’s cricketers were encouraging the Indian batsmen at Lords. Sharon soon joined me and two more pitches saw us to the top. I eschewed the option of belaying on the Madonna as it didn’t seem to be attached to a great deal and took a traditional stance behind a handy boulder. The sun reappeared, below the toy cars raced up and down the hairpins and we gazed at the view munching our sandwiches. A steady hour’s walk via some mildly exciting via ferrata action, saw us back at the pass for a well deserved cold beer.
The “other” Oread meet saw teams ticking routes from the Folzarego Pass and Giau Pass, plus routes at Cinque Torre, bolt clipping on the valley crags, biking, running, walking, cable car rides, ice cream eating, crazy golf, swimming, pizza eating and plenty of red wine. Thanks to all who came along and made it so much fun, especially the super baby sitters Nea and Lyra.
The President’s Puzzle:
If you were to read “gain a wide corner crack. Ancient sling and krab at the top left of the crack. Climb to the top of this and move diagonally left” would you either:
- Climb to the top of the crack and the ancient sling;
- Climb a little way up the crack.
The guide book from which this is taken does, on reflection, provide a hint. It says it is easy to get lost.
A pint of beer for anyone who identifies the route (in Wales) and also provides an explanation.
Chris Wilson
Beech Mount, 10 Beacon Road, Rolleston on Dove, Staffs DE13 9EF
+44 (0)##### ###### or +44 (0)##### ######
Information on Members Activities.
In an attempt to make the Newsletter more useful to our members, it may be an idea to let them know what other members have been up to outside the club activities. If you would like to send notes of any trips you have been on I will publish these so that others can contact you for information and advice about doing the same themselves.
First up is Stuart Firth [#####@######.##] ##### ###### and his note is shown below:-
I know a fair number of Oreads have become cyclists in recent years and undertake touring trips. If anyone is interested, I can let them have details of some of our recent cycling adventures, which did involve a few hills:
Over the Himalaya, highest roads in the world - Manali to Leh, 9 days, Cyclists Touring Club, supported. Max ~17,500 feet
Land's End to John o'Groats. 1074 miles in 3 stages over 22 days, B&B route, unsupported
Calais to Montpellier 1090 miles in 2 stages over 4 weeks, using Logis de France, European Bike Express, unsupported
Lake Geneva to Menton - Route des Grandes Alpes - 705 km and 17 passes climbing a total of 15,000 metres in 9 days, using Logis de France, unsupported.
Hut Bookings for September.
Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else. Colin Hobday.
Please note that I will be away between July 2nd - July 28th. hut bookings, enquires to Chuck Hooley please.
TAN-YR-WYDDFA HEATHY LEA
Sept. 2/3rd. Sphinx MC 16 beds. Sept. 2/3rd vacant
Sept 9/10th vacant. Sept 9/10th. K Fellfares cottage.
Sept. 16/17th Satley H.W.C. 16 beds. Sept. 17/24th Wessex MC cottage/barn
Sept 23/24th vacant Sept. 30/1st Derwent MC cottage
Sept 30/1st South Cheshire CC 16 beds.
PLEASE NOTE THAT I WILL BE AWAY FROM AUGUST 30TH - SEPTEMBER 14TH.
ALL HUT ENQUIRIES TO CHUCK HOOLEY.
Recall for replacement: GRIGRI 2
Concerns all GRIGRI 2’s (D14 2O, D14 2G, D14 2B ) with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136
Date of Safety Alert: July 05, 2011
Issue:
Petzl has discovered that exerting excessive force on the fully extended handle of the GRIGRI 2 can cause internal damage, such that the GRIGRI 2 handle may become stuck in the open position.
When the handle is stuck in this position the assisted braking function is disabled. A damaged GRIGRI 2 in this configuration will function similarly to a manual belay device (e.g. tube style device).
When using a damaged GRIGRI 2 with the handle stuck in the position as shown in Figure 1, failure to control the braking side of the rope will increase the risk of an uncontrolled descent. A GRIGRI 2 with a damaged handle must be immediately retired from service.
Figure 1
Action Required:
Recall all GRIGRI 2’s with the first five digits of the serial number between 10326 and 11136, and replace with a new revised GRIGRI 2. Petzl will pay for all shipping costs to complete this replacement.
Forthcoming Meets
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August |
Wed 17th |
Evening Meet & The Monsal Head Pub. |
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Sat 27th to Mon 29th |
Summer Bank Holiday in Pembroke. |
Annegret Seibert |
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September |
Tues 13th |
Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook |
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Sat 10th to Sat17 th |
Lundy |
Derek Pike |
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Wed 21st |
Last Evening Meet & Balti |
Simon Pape |
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October |
Tues 4th |
Evening Meet at Royal Oak Ockbrook |
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Tues 11th |
Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook |
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Sat 8th Sun 9th |
Little Langdale |
John Green |
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Sat 29th Sun 30th |
Curry Meet - Tan yr Wyddfa |
Tony Howard |
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November |
Tues 1st |
Evening Meet at Royal Oak Ockbrook |
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Sat 5th Sun 6th |
Heathy Lea Bonfire |
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Tues 8th |
Committee Meets Royal Oak Ockbrook |
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Sat 19th |
62nd Annual Dinner |
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Sun 20th |
Post Prandial Walk |
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Copyright – Oread Mountaineering Club.
Editor: John Green, Ivy Cottage, Church Lane, Morley Derbys. ##### ######
Email – #####@######.##