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NEWSLETTER FOR OCT 2008

Editorial

We are now getting into the late Autumn and the leaves will be changing to that lovely golden colour that makes climbing on crags in The Peak, Lakes and Yorkshire such a pleasure. For those of you who are wandering the greater ranges, please let me have a write up of what you have done, this not only makes great reading, but gives ideas to those of us not so proficient at sorting out places to go. The committee agreed that it would be a good idea to print one of these articles each month, rather than putting them all together in a journal. So come on Bob, Rock, Tony, let me have your stories and the odd picture for everyone to enjoy. I've just returned from walking the top half of the Offa's Dyke path. A week's superb weather and some hills I've never been to, the Clwydian Hills. These are not high, but have great views and excellent terrain. Definitely recommendable!

Forthcoming meets.


October Tues 7th Members slide evening at the Royal Oak Tony Howard
Sat 11th - Sun 12th Heathy Lea John Green
Tue 14th Committee Meeting - Smithfield
Tues 21st "Matterhorns of Tibet" slide evening at the Royal Oak Tony Howard
Sat 25th - Sun 26th Tan yr Wyddfa I Curry Meet Tony Howard

November Sun 2nd Dovedale Dash Rob Tressider
Tue 11th Committee Meeting - Smithfield
Sat 15th Annual Dinner Neil Weatherstone
Sun 16th Post Prandial Walk Richard Hopkinson
Sat 29th - Sun 30th Coniston Tony Howard

December Tues 9th Committee Meeting - Smithfield
Wed 10th Black Rocks Rob Tresidder
Sat 13th - Sun 14th Bullstones James Tubby
Wed 24th - Wed 31st Christmas at Tan yr Wyddfa Rock Hudson (New Year)

Heathy Lea. 11th 12th October.John Green

Heathy Lea, our country home in the Peak! Your editor is ashamed to admit, not having used it to stay, for some considerable time. I shall be turning up on Friday during the afternoon, hopefully, weather permitting, having already done some climbing on Birchin's. Friday evening will see me at the "Robin Hood" partaking of some refreshment. You could join me there or at the hut for an interesting weekend rediscovering some of the reasons we love Heathy Lea. Please let me know if you are coming so I have some idea of bed space.

"Not Just a Curry Meet - Tan Yr Wyddfa" : 25th - 26th October Tony Howard.

The autumn will soon be upon us again & I would like to invite you to Tan Yr Wyddfa for a weekend of mountaineering & a communal meal - as has become traditional over the last few years. You know all about the climbing & walking delights of North Wales at this time of year. It could be dry & sunny , or it could be dark, dismal and aqueous. Whatever the weather we should have a spiffing good time Jeeves! This year I'd like to try a different culinary type: eastern food, Thai, Chinese or Indonesian. The cost for the food will be about £5 to £6 per person for everyone who attends. Bring your own drink. The more sophisticated among us will imbibe quality wine, while others may quaff beer at rate to match our President's alpine demonstration! If you would like to come & join me and if you would be willing to do some cooking, please let me know ASAP. If you are willing to cook, please let me know what you can offer.

Dovedale Dash - Sunday 2 November 11.00 a.m.

4.75 miles, downhill start, uphill finish, remainder flat and often entertainingly wet and muddy. Registration from 9. Entry fee is £3. Leave plenty of time. Cars start backing up in the village from about 10 o'clock. If travelling by car, please try and share. If you are looking for a lift or have a space to offer, please contact me below. Car parking is £2 per vehicle. (Thorpe Pastures and down by the river ).You all know how to do it! Well do you? I hope we will have some newcomers from the club to this famous race, probably Britain's oldest off road fun run. Fun? It can get pretty intense up at the front; I know, not from being there you understand, but from spectating last year, the very first time for me. More (especially last minute) from me or on the Dash website - www.dovedaledash.co.uk/ Here's hoping Uschi will be in good voice at the Stepping Stones! Not running? Why not join Uschi and give her a bit of support. AFTER the Dash, please let me have your finish position. There are some obsessive's in the club for whom these things are important!! Enjoy your run. Rob Tresidder

Post Dinner walk. Sunday 16th November. Richard Hopkinson.

This year's walk will start from the Bear. We will make our way to the Barley Mow at Kirk Ireton for refreshment (for which the Barley Mow is renowned) before returning by a shorter route. We can park in the Bear car park, but please park on the left (as you enter) so that their lunch time custom is not affected. As the Barley Mow closes at 2pm I propose that we aim the meet at about 10.15 for a prompt departure at 10.30, to allow time to rehydrate at the Barley Mow. The Barley Mow serves cobs but not meals. Any queries please give me a ring.

Bullstones Meet 12th-14th Dec

This year the Bullstones will be held over my favourite walking area, and also the traditional home of meet, the Dark Peak district. More about the route next month. Saturday night accommodation will be at the Fieldhead campsite, adjacent to the new visitor centre in Edale and we'll be spending the evening at the Rambler Inn. The campsite looks to have decent facilities such as showers and a drying room. I need to firm up the booking in mid November, so early indication if you are planning on coming would be a help. If for some reason camping 2 nights does not appeal, there are rooms at the Rambler Inn. I'll be booking a table for the meal, but if anyone wants to stay at the Rambler please arrange directly (but let me know so I don't add you to the campsite numbers). Other accommodation is available in Edale.

Reports from past meets and news.

Oread Alpine Meet - July/August 2008


In days of olde
When climbers were bold
And chalk wasn't invented
They wiped their hands on the back of their jeans
And had to be contented
In days of olde
When Oreads were bold
And sport climbing wasn't invented
They wielded their axes on glacial ice
Or would not have been contented.

It was not so this year. A small and not very select band of the aforementioned nymphs took up residence at Camping Le Verger, La Roche de Rame about 20km south of Briançon in the French Alps. First to arrive was Mr Bayonet and The Artist Formerly Known as Fat Boy. Perhaps I should say The Artist who wishes to be known as The Artist Formerly Known as Fat Boy? They were shortly followed by Richard Hopkinson, President Simon of Intake Lane, the Family Hayes, The Duke & Duchess of Lancaster and a week late: Maggie - The Lady of Intake Lane.

The first real effort by Mr Bayonet and The Artist was to ascend the local and spectacular via ferrata; Les Gorge de la Durance. Richard and the President took advantage of their language and climbing skills to firstly translate the guidebook description and then to climb Voie des Quarantes, a rock route on Éperon de la Route in the Cerces. Mike Hayes and the Duke of Lancaster intended to open their account at Ailefroide on Palavar les Flots but found themselves on the harder Little Palavar - so climbed that instead! Their motto: when your route-finding skills decline - just raise your game technically.

Later on Richard, Mike, Mr B and The Artist did Palavar de Flots - a superb 400m slab and not too hard either. The same team sans Mike also did Little Palavar, with The Artist in the middle exercising his right to free expression - as artists do - whenever a move was harder and a bolt in reach! Well, it is the Alps, it is France, he's no spring chicken (1) and his fatness and fitness are still not yet where they should be.

Towards the end of the first week, the House of Lancaster left us, not to confront the Yorkists, but in order to rendezvous with some Wilsons and the Yellow Edge. The rest of the nymphs stayed on to hold the fort - or at least the campsite - and climbed on! Other ascents were made on the Éperon de la Route, by the President and Lady of Intake Lane and also by The Artist and Mr Bayonet. Richard and the Pres did Voie de l'Éperon on the Pointe de Buffère and Nid d'Aigle at Le Ponteil.

Much sport climbing was done, for example at Argentière, Ailefroide, Fournel, and Prelles. Via ferratas were engaged on the Aiguillette du Lauzet, which was a great day out, on the Plateau D'Oreac and at Argentière. The Family Hayes celebrated Tom's birthday with us, went swimming, boating, walking and - to Emma delight - climbed via ferratas. Helen led at least one expedition to Briançon. They made friends with the locals. Drunken antics were performed on a blow-up toy - in full view of all!

The President claims to have read at least seven novels during the meet and certainly left a pile of 'dead' beer and/or wine bottles outside his tent every night! These were both tremendous feats, the latter winning him the Club Drinker title - wrested from The Artist Formerly known as ……, who was held back somewhat by the abstemious Mr B. Apart from a couple of short downpours, we had clear hot sunny weather for the two-week duration of the meet. This was an enjoyable trip with good rock climbing, magnificent weather and pleasant evenings in good company on a superb campsite! You can't have too many superlatives can you? As the rest of the Oreads left, The Artist was joined by his wife for another 8 days walking in the Ecrins and the Queyras, with deteriorating but still acceptable weather. It's great being retired! The Artist Formerly Known as Fat Boy. (1)Though he might like to eat one.

Annual Dinner Update.

I've received a fair few responses so far. Keep them coming in. Don't forget the deadline is Monday 3rd of November. Annual Dinner Guest Speaker - Nigel Vardy This year, our guest speaker will be local Belper mountaineer and author. Nigel Vardy. Nigel suffered severe frostbite in 1999, whilst climbing on Mt. McKinley in Alaska and after a three-year recovery he returned to high altitudes, climbing Island Peak in Nepal. He wrote a book titled 'Once Bitten' describing his climb, rescue and recovery. A Discovery Channel/Channel 4 documentary was made of the story last year. Since then Nigel has gone on to accomplish a British first - climbing the highest peaks on the worlds seven largest islands. In case you are wondering what they are… Penny Ice Cap (Baffin Island) Gunnbjørns Fjeld (Greenland) Mt. Kinabalu (Borneo) Gunung Kerinci (Sumatra) Carstensz Pyramid (Iran Jaya) Maromokotro (Madagascar) Mt. Fuji (Honshu) Futher details regarding Nigel can be found on his website (www.into-thin-air.co.uk)

Joint Meet with K-Fellfarers - 19th & 20th July

TYW hosted the first of a couple of joint meets with the K-Fellfarers. Unfortunately, the timing of this meet clashed with many Oread's heading away on holiday or to the Alps. The Oread was represented by Roy, Birgit and Tim. The sky was thick with cloud and the K-Fellfarers ventured to the summit of Snowdon, disappointingly without any views. The Oread contingent walked hills of less height and kept out of the cloud and enjoyed a good day out. In the evening a communal curry was arranged and a fair few drinks drained. Make a space in your diary for the next joint meet with the K-Fellfarers. It's planned for the weekend of the 7th Feb 2009 where we will be staying at their hut in Borrowdale.

Heathy Lea BBQ and Beer - 13th & 14th September

The sun shone brightly as a bumper crowd of Oreads descended on Heathy Lea. Probably the biggest crowd for some time and pleasing to see. Once the morning's joint Committee and Hut Sub Committee meeting was finished an enjoyable afternoons climbing was had at Birchen's Edge in warm, sunny weather. Once we'd all returned to HL via the Robin Hood for a refreshing drink, a huge bonfire was expertly constructed from large logs and the BBQ's stoked up. The Oread Summer Ale must have been good, as it didn't last very long. On Sunday more routes were done at Gardom's Edge around the Apple Buttress area. Someone almost missed out on the climbing as they had been accidentally locked in the HL toilet, where they were stranded helplessly until our President, ever vigilant for the call to action, heard the desperate cries for help and came to the rescue. Thanks to all who came along and made it such an enjoyable weekend.

Help With Lap Tops!

The Oread has purchased its own digital projector for the coming season, for approximately £450 (inc spare lamp). As yet we do not have our own laptop to go with it, and indeed I would hope to avoid the purchase of one if possible, as this would roughly double our total expenditure. We may have to do so in the end, but let's see how we get on! For the time being I would like to draw on the services of some Club members - who might be willing to bring their own laptop along on evenings when they will be attending the lecture anyway. There are many more laptops owned by or available to Club members than there are projectors of course, so this plan might work very well. If you anticipate attending most, or even or fair proportion of the lectures and are willing to provide a laptop on those evenings, please let me know. If we can be confident of getting a laptop BY PRIOR ARRANGEMENT for each lecture, we could avoid the expense of buying one specifically for the club. This is how we have managed so far of course! So if you can offer a laptop for Club use on some evenings, then please let me know ASAP - indicating perhaps what proportion of the programme you might expect to attend. I look forward to hearing from you, Best wishes, Tony Howard

The Bar Room Mountaineers- CD

During this summer I have been working with Paul Cherry of the Cotswold Studio to prepare a new CD, 'The Bar Room Mountaineers'.This is a follow on from 'The Legend of Joe Brown' CD I produced two years ago which sold out. This new record contains some traditional climbing songs, such as 'The Karabiner King', 'Mountaineers most disingenuous' 'The Ballad of Bill Murray' etc etc some of which I have updated with more contemporary lyrics, plus two songs I have written for the record, 'The Road Song' and 'The Boulder Freakie'. 'The Road Song' is performed by Peter and Yifat Simpson formerly of the New York City Opera.Paul Cherry (who is an accomplished guitarist) has also written a song 'At Heaven's Door' which he performs on the record. Perhaps of keen interest will be the inclusion on the CD of two selections of Tom Patey playing and singing his own historic songs; e.g. 'Onward Christian Bonington', 'The Peter Crew Song', 'The Legend of Joe Brown', 'The Annapurna Song' and many more. These have been re-mastered off a tape which is over 40 years old by Paul, and despite their age they are of a remarkable quality. Initially this will be a limited edition production of only 25 signed Copies. However if there is a demand, subsequently more copies can be prepared to meet this need. It is hoped to have the CD ready in time for the Kendal Film Festival on 22nd November. These will be £10 a copy, plus £1 for post and packing. Dennis Gray

Assembly Rooms Lecture - Wed 15th October.

Vertigo - Top British mountaineers Kenton Cool and Ian Parnell tell their stories of high altitude climbing from the North Face of the Eiger to the summit of Everest. £12, concessions £10. http://www.assemblyrooms-derby.co.uk/WhatsOn/Shows/081015vertigo.htm

Oread Badges.

I wondered how many folks were aware that the club has a very smart badge for sale to members. It is like the logo at the top of the magazine and can be purchased from Colin Hobday for £3-50 each. Please don't all rush to get one as numbers are limited!

Graphic Designers.

As you all may be aware the club has been successful in its bid to get a grant for advertising for new members. We now have to design a poster to do the job. Is there anyone who could help with this? Incidentally we also need to modify our letter head as it must contain the new BMC motive.

2009 Meets List

You will find enclosed with this months newsletter the meets list for 2009. There are still meets which require leaders, so if you would like to lead any of them please get in touch. I'll be at all the forthcoming slide shows and the annual dinner and you can phone or email me Thanks Neil

Hut Bookings. For September/October.

Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else.


Tan-yr-Wyddfa
Oct. 3/4th. South Cheshire C.C. 16 beds.
Oct 10/11th. Bassetlaw HWC 16 beds.
Oct.17/18th. L.M.A. 16 beds.
Oct. 24/25th. Oread meet. Whole Hut
Oct. 31/1 st Yorkshire M.C. 16 beds.

Heathy Lea
Oct 10/11th Oread Meet Cottage/Barn
If you have not paid your hut fees, could you please send them to me A.S.A.P. Thanks Colin Hobday.