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NEWSLETTER FOR OCTOBER 2004

FORTHCOMING EVENTS


October 16 & 17 Autumn Amble George Reynolds
October 23 & 24 Tan-Yr-Wyddfa Tony Howard
November Tuesday 2 Early alpine ascents Ray Colledge
November Sunday 7 Dovedale Dash Rob Tresidder
November Saturday 27 Annual Dinner Merle Gartside

October 16 & 17 Autumn Amble George Reynolds

Heathy Lea is booked for this meet, so an excellent opportunity to make a weekend of it! The walk itself will take place on Sunday. Meet at the Shillito Wood car park (SK295750) at 10.15 for 10.30 [does that mean a stirrup cup will be provided, George? - Ed]. We shall amble through the woods below Ramsley Moor to Car Road - beware motor bikes and stretched jeeps). to Barbrook reservoir, via Greaves Piece and then on to Bar Brook bridge, The Grouse, White Edge. We'll continue round the edge, overlooking Bar Brook before crossing the brook to the track and so back to Ramsley reservoir and the cars.

October 23 & 24 Tan-Yr-Wyddfa Tony Howard

The Curry Meet: North Wales in the Autumn - always a good time and place! We could climb sunny rock in Ogwen, 'The Pass', Gogarth or Tremadog. We could go trudging the fells in rain mist and hail. We could skid and slide our way around Diffs or severes. Whatever the weather we should have a good time and get some exercise, before returning to T-Y-W to sip tea and enjoy polite conversation before an early night to bed with a cup of hot chocolate!

I plan to organise a communal meal again and I already have two offers to cook. The cost for the food will be about £5-6/ person payable over the weekend itself. Some places have already been booked but there are still quite a few left. If you would like to come & join us, please let me know ASAP.

November Tuesday 2 Early alpine ascents Ray Colledge

This is NOT a talk about Whymper and Coolidge! Ray will concentrate on ascents he made in 1969, especially of the Eiger and of how conditions have changed since 1938. RT

November Sunday 7 Dovedale Dash Rob Tresidder

Well, here we are again already! The Oread made it onto the results list last year with Rusty's second over 60. First again this year Rusty? If you've run before, then read no further. The essentials are that the race starts at 11. If arriving by car, expect long queues to get into the car park (£1) on Thorpe Meadows. Advisable to aim to arrive soon after 10 to leave time to register (£2.50) and jaw with those old friends you only ever see at the Dash. Course is less than five miles and terrain is mud, water, tarmac and then more mud, mud, mud. Steeply downhill to start taken uphill to finish. Probably the oldest off road fun run in the country. More details on http://www.dovedaledash.co.uk

November Saturday 27 Annual Dinner Merle Gartside

Please see separate notice (or, electronically, second attachment.) Please book your place this month using the handy tear-off booking slip.

INDOOR MEETS

My apologies to Tim Cairns for not getting this notice into the last newsletter. All meets take place on the first Tuesday of the month starting at 8 p.m. in The Royal Oak in Ockbrook. As already noted above, Ray Colledge reminisces in November. In December, former Leeds University students Pete and Chris tell tales of their experiences over 35 years on all of the Rébuffat Six. New member Steve Christian will speak in January on a subject to be announced followed by "old" favourites Gordon Gadsby in February and Rock Hudson in March.

2005 MEETS

I intend to publish a provisional list next month and the definitive list in December. At present I am looking for suggestions/volunteers for away meets on weekends of 12 February, 12 March, 11 & 25 June. So if you have a favourite place you'd like to introduce to the Oread or perhaps a new slant on somewhere we all know well, please let me know. I am also seeking leaders for the popular equinoctial Sunday walks on 20 March and 25 September. If no-one volunteers to lead the Summer Stroll on 19 June, I shall end up doing it and then you'll all regret it! RT

SQUIRRELS SURRENDER YOUR NUTS

I have been contacted by Stephen Perrequin who has established a museum of Rock Climbing Protective Devices in Ajaccio on Corsica. He is keen to obtain the following absentees from his collection:

If anyone in the club would be willing to donate any of the above or make any comment about early devices would they please contact me either by letter or phone. John Fisher

Past Events


Tan-yr-Wyddfa 10-12 September Gill Heyes

Glorious "Indian Summer" weather earlier in the week turned to unsettled weather by Friday. This change had been accurately predicted by the Met office and did not deter those who had committed to attend the meet and we all had an enjoyable and entertaining weekend.

Steve Christian and family, plus Paul Howe and Roy Eyre had tried to catch the end of the fine spell by arriving on Thursday evening, but still managed to cop for a soaking on Friday - Paul and Roy venturing onto the East Face of Tryfan.

It was merely cloudy when we started on Saturday but rain eventually set in. Derek & Nick went to the Molwyns; others to Tremadog, most getting in a route before the rain started. Gill and myself, together with Paul & Roy attempted Eastern Arete on Y Garn. The route was greasy even before it started raining and it gradually became more tenuous as the conditions deteriorated. Eventually as the party was beginning to show signs of hypothermia we abseiled off into Central Gully and retreated. Gill pointed out this was now our third failure on this route - must wait for dry conditions next time. It was, nevertheless, an adventurous sort of day although it was a pleasant relief to be able to strip off the wet clothes back at the hut.

Gill had organised for several people to contribute communal food and they had responded admirably so we had a very sociable evening eating and drinking to excess.

More rain and gales moved in overnight but it was reasonably benign next morning although again turning to rain later. While Gill stayed behind to prepare for her new teaching assignment, several of us ventured down to Tremadog. Derek, Nick & I chose Striptease which was sufficiently overhanging to allow us to finish the route, while Mike, Simon & James got caught on neighbouring One Step and had to retreat.

Despite the unpromising conditions everyone seemed to enjoy themselves. Thanks to those of you who came along to make the meet a success: Simon and Maggie Pape, Steve, Sally & Thomas Christian, Paul Howe, Roy Eyre, Mike Wren, Nick Evans, Derek & Joan Pike, James Pike, Chiz and Reuben Dakin, Chris Jonson, John Gresty plus Gill & myself. CJR

HUT BOOKINGS

TAN-YR-WYDDFA


Oct 1/2nd Oread Meet
Oct 8/9th Buxton MC 16 beds Oread room 2 beds
Oct 15/16th. Bewdley MC 10 beds
Oct 22/23rd. Oread meet.
Oct 25/29th. D. Weston 9 beds
Oct29/30th. vacant

HEATHY LEA


Oct1/2nd. vacant
Oct8/9th. B. Wibberly cottage/barn
Oct15/16th. Oread meet.
Oct22/23rd. Southampton University cottage/barn
Oct29/30th. Croydon MC cottage

DOUG COOK

An Appreciation
Doug died recently at the age of 83, a long standing Oread member, naturally enough best known to the older generation. As a climber, his most active periods were the sixties and the late fifties when he joined, and was welcomed by, the most active, energetic and enterprising group in the club. With them he pursued serious rock climbing in the UK and abroad, including alpine ascents of merit. This steady and determined older man was a companion of the likes of Burgess, Brailsford, Handley, Chapman, Colledge and Harrison, so it goes without saying that his mountaineering competence was well regarded.

Mountaineering apart Doug, as a cultured man, had an interest in nature, in particular bird life, photography, classical music and craft. In later years these pursuits, as they do, replaced the physical objectives. For example, he spent much time with Laurie Burns bird watching in remote parts of Scotland. In his early days he showed promise as a pianist and certainly his interest in classical music continued to the end.

Recollections of and commentaries on Doug are as varied as the observers since he was a man of wide interests and essentially self-educated. Ones view reflected the facets of him which were encountered. While this is true, there was nevertheless a consistent theme noted by all and that was that Doug was a steady, modest, humane and dependable man. The comment that looking up or down the rope to his round face with the glint of spectacles always created a sense of security sums up that part of his character.

In conclusion, Doug and his wife Pat enjoyed fifty-seven years of stable married life. The story of their meeting, he a soldier, she a German civilian, and their pursuit of marriage in the hard and restricted post-war days of 1945 make a romantic narrative which has to be omitted in this short contribution. Doug will be remembered with much respect and affection.
J.F.

Newsletter publication and circulation

I intend to publish the newsletter on the first Tuesday of each month. Those who receive their copy electronically should find it in their inbox sometime during the day. Printed newsletters should be available in The Royal Oak. Those not collected will be posted, second class, the following day.