June, the start of the long days of summer, is saddened by the loss of one of the Oread's best known members. Roger Turner, who died on the 13th May, his loss will be felt by all those who knew him. A great climber, skier and all round mountaineer. A tribute will be published next month. We finally have a meet set for the Alps this summer and there is an awful lot going on at both huts, more news as I get it. Remember, next months newsletter will be a double, to include August. Please let me have your write ups in good time. I still want to hear from those of you lucky enough to have been to far away places, to give the rest of us some good idea's for destinations to climb. It does not matter if it was a few years ago, please let me have a few paragraphs for your magazine.
On the basis that Borrowdale has been done over the last few years, I have decided to go to Wasdale for a change and for a re-union with the heart of Lakeland mountaineering. If you need any introduction to this high class destination don't be bashful, be brave, be there! Recommended destinations will be Scafell, Pikes Crag if you wish, the Napes, Kern Knotts or Gable Crag on Gable or even Pillar. I will be camping at the SW end of the National Trust campsite
The time has come for Oreads to stand up and be counted! Last years AGM and the survey that followed all pointed to a consensus that we wanted a hut and that a significant number of you were willing to help with the upkeep - So I expect a good turn out for our annual working party The list of jobs is growing so I am sure we can find one to match everyone's talents (even my own limited ones). The list so far includes:
I am planning to stay over on Friday evening for anyone wanting to join some early preparation in the Robin Hood and we will have a BBQ on Saturday evening so please join the committee and bring along some food and beer. In between we will set to work on as many jobs as possible and hopefully still have time to visit the edges nearby. Please let me know if you are able to attend for all or some of the weekend so that we can put a plan together and make sure we have the right tools. If you have a chain saw and would be willing to bring it along then please do. Looking forward to seeing you
Parking at the Moor Lane car park above Youlgreave in the Pay and Display area or at the roadside, in time for a 10 am start. Lunch at Monyash in the hostelry, the adjacent cafe or in the sunshine on the grass. Rock Jocks may wish to explore Low Crag in Calling Low plantation en route, (jungle knives and waders a necessity). A detour is also planned via Mill and Haddon Grove farms and along the valley rim. In the valley are the interesting remains of the Mandale lead mine, one of the largest in the area. The return leg is via One Ash Grange. This is a pleasant walk and I hope to see both the young and the old guard in attendance. Sorry Rob, no bus, although I'm sure Youlgreave must be accessible from Bakewell. Please liaise re transport. Hope to see you on the day.
After a successful trip to the Roaches last year for the longest Wednesday esoteric/ long distance climbing meet. The venue this year will be nearby Hen Cloud. I haven't climbed there myself but the guidebook description fits the bill of an esoteric venue. I'm sure many Oreads have climbed there before and can offer advice on route choice. Hen Cloud is located just off the A53 Leek-Buxton road near Upper Hulme. After the climbing we'll be in the The Rock Inn for some post match analysis. In the event of inclement weather the meet will be postponed. This will be advised via the email group.
No write up received.
The tree surgeons have been at work at Black Rocks! Trees and shrubs have been removed all over the north face including the huge silver birch that obstructed Derrick's beloved Garden Wall Traverse. What we need now is for climbers to spend a little time with trowel and stiff brush (no wire please) hanging on the end of a rope. The foresters will be back in November to radically thin the the slope between the north face and the High Peak Trail. I hope that our president, whose fondness for the rocks (his home is closer than any other Oread) is legendary and our new meets sec, can put their heads together and get some Oreads out on this excellent crag sometime before December! Rob Tresidder
The weather was pretty much as good as it gets for the start or April and our first evening trip outside. The sunny dry conditions generated a sizable turnout, with about 30 or so Oreads in attendance, which was more than enough to swamp the Old Gate once darkness fell. Plenty of climbs were ascended and many boulder problems dispatched, with the luxury of warm fingers and dry ground from which to start. Hopefully this is a sign of the summer to come, it can't be a wet one again, can it? - Neil W
16 Oreads amassed at the George Starkey Hut at various times during the course of Friday. Saturday began clear and bright but with a fairly strong wind. Fairly early on in the day it became apparent that the strengthening wind would have a decisive influence on the days activities, and the previous evenings plans for High Street and the Helvellyn range were soon abandoned in favour of lower level traverses of Place Fell, Sheffield Pike and a return via Ullswater. Despite this cautionary approach on returning to the hut several members reported being 'battered' by gale force winds even at this fairly low altitude. Fortunately Sunday was a much better day, dry, bright and calm. After a fairly leisurely start various parties headed for Angle Tarn Beck, Grisedale and other more distant objectives while Angela, Roland and John took advantage of the improved weather, dug out the climbing gear and climbed various routes on Gowbarrow Park, Yew Crag. Routes included, Dave's Slab VD, The Whistler MVS 24m and a superb lead by Rowland of Susan 24m HVS 5a. While the 'wage slaves' headed home on Sunday afternoon the meet continued as several members opted to take advantage of the spring like conditions, bolstered by the arrival of the Thursday Group Thanks to everyone who came along -Andrea, John & Syl G, Angela & Roland, Brian, Pam & Nodge, Kevin & Margaret, Chris, Pete & Ali, Rock and in particular Jack who provided the following report regarding the rest of the week's activities. Stuart Haywood.
The continuation mid-week meet went exceptionally well, the spring like sunlight adding considerably to each days walking. Following a gentle Monday evening walk from Grisedale up to Lanty Tarn and down to Glenridding, Tuesday gave us a day traversing Glenridding Dodd and Sheffield Pike. The walk down Glencoyne completed the round, new to some. Wednesday it was up Deepdale to the hause with various reminiscing of days on Hutaple Crag and winter routes in Fairfield gullies. The traverse of St Sunday Crag in calm sunny weather afforded excellent views of the Helvellyn range with snow still lingering in the gullies and on Striding Edge. Thursday was the steamer down to How Town (9.45 start - only just) and the traverse of Place Fell. There was a little variation in routes, some choosing to walk the Ullswater shore line and steamer return; me walking Place Fell south to north. We returned to the 'deep south' early Friday, having only my real altercation during the week when Digger poured Hanks half drunk coffee down the sink. (I think that was it.) JA - on behalf of the Thursday Group.
The few workers who turned up for this meet, certainly excelled and did the work of 10. Despite torrential downpours, howling gales, freezing temperatures and snow the list of jobs given by the committee was completed. We arrived to find Chuck black faced, with soot in his ears, having swept the chimney. The kitchen fan was no longer clogged with grease and working perfectly. John, Stuart, Nick, Chuck, Margaret worked tirelessly both days to finish our tasks. Thanks to their hard work the hut is in good working order, although some fascinating but easily remedied holes have appeared in the lounge. Pam
The Christian family will be heading off to Ireland on 22nd August for 2 weeks. Initially we will be centred around Killarney for a week and probably another area for the second week. A return ferry journey has cost us £340 for the campervan and we are travelling on the superfast Stena boat from Holyhead. All others will be welcome and if so I can drop out details of the campsite. For those who may be tempted, see the link below for the campsite we have booked. Within easy walking distance of Killarney with 'The Reeks' very nearby. http://www.killarneycamping.com;
Victoria Bate was elected a full member at the May committee meeting. We wish her well in her climbing with us.
Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else.
Dear All Following a very successful workshop in 2008, Smart Climbing is running a similar open weekend workshop this June, with a greater emphasis on the psychological side of climbing. I would be grateful if you could pass on the details to your members. I have attached a poster and a booking form, and more details are available on our website http://www.smartclimbing.co.uk Tips are also regularly posted on our BLOG http://smartclimbing.blogspot.com/ Many thanks for your help Best wishes Rebecca Williams Smart Climbing