This is a bumper edition for July and August, presented in a new way. Hope you like it. We have a great article by Roger Gibbs on Stoney and an appreciation of Roger Turner's life by Gordon Gadsby. With a new Meets Secretary and a flush of good idea's we will have some exciting things to look forward to next year. If you want to take part contact Mike Wren.
My first go as meet leader for the Oread club and I get the best Welsh rock meet of the year! Called "the best crag in the world" by Leo Houlding, as you all know, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy) deserves a special place in the history of Welsh climbing. It has all-time classics in just about every grade, and home to famed routes such as "Indian Face" and "Master's Wall". Very long (up to 300m+), mostly serious, routes in an alpine setting. Some loose rock - an integral part in the Cloggy climbing experience. This will be my first visit to Cloggy and I can't wait to get on the classics, Great Slab, White Slab, Vember etc. Looking forward to seeing lots of Oread's there. Call me if you have any questions and to book beds. Good weather guaranteed!
How could a meet be any better than this? Combining the two activities most Oread's enjoy. Drinking and climbing, not necessarily in that order! Meet at HL on Saturday morning for a 10am departure on foot. I plan to walk to the Northern end of Baslow Edge and then work back Southwards climbing various routes on the way, finishing at the hut late afternoon. The walking and climbing should work up a good thirst and to slake this there will be approx 10 gallons of beer available, all are light and full flavoured - perfect for a summer session.
To cover costs there will be a nominal cover charge, which will be decided on the day dependant upon numbers - not likely to be more than a couple of quid each, regardless how much you drink. For those with a sophisticated palate, pickled eggs will be on hand. If it is a wet day, party starts early. Phone or email to book your bed. Should be a fun weekend, see you there.
Our hut is not booked during this period so that members may visit for a break. Please inform Colin as usual if you are coming.
Camping will, as usual, be at Rhosson Ganol Farm, St Justinian's (GR 727252) To find the Oread, follow signs for St Justinian's lifeboat station from St Davids. From the Cross, down the hill past the Farmer's Arms, then sharp right down past the Cathedral (one way system) and keep on towards the lifeboat station until you can see the sea, with Rhosson Farm on your right and a group of large bins on the left. The farm is overlooked by a prominent hill on the left of the road and the campsite is under the seaward side of this hill with views over Ramsey Island and the sound. Turn left up a track just past the farmhouse, take the right fork and then keep to the left. We usually camp in the first field on the left. There is of course lots of climbing to be done, most of which is in the middle grades and still retains the feeling of remoteness and pioneering. For those intent on high grade climbing Carreg-y-Barcud should keep you off the streets, and of course if you seek the popular hot spots you can easily drive down South to join the crowds. For those of a less than vertical disposition there are many splendid walks, not only along the cliffs, but also inland, giving plenty of variety. A visit to the Preseli Hills and Rosebush is highly recommended as an alternative day out! I always look upon this meet as the best holiday on the Oread calendar with plenty of socialising and family appeal. There is much to do; climbing, walking, swimming or simply lying on the beach. I am informed that some Oreads will be there during the previous week and I'm confident that there will be an Oread presence until the following weekend and even beyond, so you will be sure of a welcome over the whole holiday period. If you need any further information please get in touch.
Please note that this is a week earlier than advertised on the meets list Although it is mid June as I write this, as this newsletter is a double issue it's time to think ahead to September. The traditional last Wednesday post climbing curry will be at the Matlock Bath balti house at 8:00pm, meeting in the County & Station beforehand. Please let me know if you want a seat booking, ideally by email or if not phone. I'll be making a provisional booking in August and then firming up at the start of September (there will be a reminder in the September newsletter). Having read about all the work done at Black Rocks in the June newsletter I propose that this be our climbing venue for the evening. It's a good opportunity to check out routes for the December meet as well as being a good venue in its own right (particularly for climbers like myself who prefer gritstone to other types of rock). This won't be the first time the pre-curry climbing has been at Black Rocks. A few years ago, in the rain, the 4 of us who met at the Matlock Bath hotel decided that Black Rocks would be a more suitable venue than Wildcat. Hopefully this year will be dry, though as Black Rocks is an all weather venue I plan to climb there whatever. The Wirksworth wall will provide a dry venue for those so inclined.
Fri evening saw a good gathering of Gloucestershire and Oread MC members at the Robin Hood - although some of the Oreads even got a few pre-pub routes done on Birchens late afternoon. Heathy Lea had been freshened up and the fire blazing thanks to the sterling efforts of Mike, Helen and Emma Hayes. A warming sight for the 14 or so staying overnight. Saturday belied the forecast and although there was the odd smattering of rain, Stanage stayed pretty dry and a good grit session was had by one and all. More Oreads appeared throughout the day and GMC members Sue and Ian Stirrups left Gloucestershire at 7am Sat to join us for the day! Evening in the wonderfully welcoming Robin Hood (what a change from some years back) was enjoyed by all. Sunday, we headed for Birchens and again the weather was relatively kind so plenty for everyone. Climbing star of the weekend was Andy Main, new GMC member, who has not long been climbing outside but was seen on Sunday happily leading awkward Hard Severe's on Birchens. Overall everyone seemed to enjoy themselves and would come again. I got several requests to run a reciprocal meet down in the Wye Valley so that is being looked into. It was great to see the hut being well used! Thanks to everyone who turned up for this meet and made it such a success. Tony Raphael
Thanks to all who turned out over the weekend and made the meet a success. 16 members, 5 children (some quite big) and 2 prospective members were to be seen hard at work painting, chopping, cleaning, path laying, roof repairing and DIY'ing over the 3 days and a further 8 turned up to watch and join the BBQ! There were many highlights: The Oread are clearly a dangerous lot, at one point we counted 6 chainsaws. Cake and tea flowed freely and they even seemed to survive my lentil soup.The cottage looks like new (well at least through my rose coloured glasses) The Hut Sub Committee will continue to look at improving the fabric of the hut with the kitchen and wash room next on our agenda so if you have any kitchen units we can use then please let me know. Michael Hayes.
Everything came together in for this meet. The weather was perfect, sunny & warm with a slight breeze to keep midges at bay, a bird ban lifted just days earlier and although there are some well climbed routes, there are plenty of lesser visited climbs at Hen Cloud that fit the description of esoteric. Around 20 Oreads made the trip West to enjoy the climbing. As the sun set it was time to head to the Olde Rock Inn for post match analysis and comparing wounds from doing battle with the unpolished gritstone. Ideas for next years esoteric meet welcome. James Tubby
Notes of Absence had been received in advance from Chrwi, Debug, Chrirad, and Rotr, nevertheless the meet was characterised by a remarkable single-mindedness in the itinerary of attendees. Friday night started late but passed quickly in the King George IV Eskdale Green in the good company of a Renolds Chains' apprentice reunion, a guitar, old ditties, and a little pop. By the time camp was being set up in Wasdale, white buses were disgorging their 3 peaks contestants hoping to be back from Scafell Pike by dawn, ready for the drive to the Ben. As the morning showers backed off we did a round of Scafell via Deep Ghyll and Broad Stand, returning to Wadale Head via the less used and wonderfully positioned Piers Ghyll path. After an aperitif at the Inn, dining on the Green, and a check at the campsite for the laggard, it was back to Eskdale Green for the verses we had previously forgotten but now remembered. An early camp was made in the grand surroundings of Wynose Bottom, along from Cockley Beck, ready for Sunday breakfast and a round of Mosedale, Esk Pike, Bow Fell, and Long Top and afternoon tea. Roger Larkham.
Wednesday 15th July - Pub Meet, The Moon, Stoney Middleton. In order to tempt Oreads out in the summer evenings, I'm organising a couple of Wednesday pub meets. The Moon is known to many, being just down the road from one of the best Limestone crags in the Peak District. It's also not too far from the gritstone edges or even the bolted climbing at Horseshoe Quarry. I fully expect to have an evening's cragging somewhere close. Please get in touch if you want to join me (or keep an eye on your inbox if you're a member of the email group).
Wednesday 18th August - Pub Meet, The Boat, Cromford Within walking distance of the President's local crags at Willersley and Bauston Tor, the Boat also has a regular bus service from High Tor, Wildcat and Black Rocks. Alternatively, there's plenty of parking in Cromford Market Place for those arriving by car! As with the 15th July meet, get in touch or check your emails if you're coming along.
Meets 2010 (and beyond) - Invitation to all members. The list will hopefully incorporate a balance of popular long standing meets, plus some at new or rediscovered places. For 2010, the main holiday slots are pretty well covered, but there is scope to include more day or weekend meets, and the school summer holiday period is still being considered. You are invited to submit suggestions for meets you would be prepared to lead, at favourite or new places, you think would prove popular in all areas, for next year, and the future, to be considered for inclusion. Full support and guidance from the committee will be provided for all meet leaders. We may try running some local and away meets concurrently, to give more scope for groups of members to get out together. For instance there could be extra HL, TYW or camping meets for families/children/babies, and meets in GB for those not going to the Alps. Remember the huts of clubs we have reciprocal rights with, (list in handbook, or available on request) and other BMC affiliated club huts. ( http://www.thebmc.co.uk) Members with multiple club memberships might like to run meets in their other clubs' huts, if practicable. Get your pitches in now. Planning early is a pain, but the early booker catches the hut (hutte), or campsite. Please get in touch with your ideas for 2010 (and beyond) a.s.a.p. Mike Wren, Meets Secretary
When Roger died in the early hours of Wednesday 13th May 2009 a large group of Oreads and friends were on a cycling and walking holiday in North Devon near Barnstaple; a trip that he was booked in for, and had arranged initially for oxygen to be delivered to Muddlebridge House for his 24 hour use. However due to an operation to free a trapped nerve in his spine he had to cancel the trip. A few days before that operation took place, we took him to the Stapleford Travel and Photo Club Annual Dinner. He was in high spirits and had a great night, talking about getting back on his bike and planning holidays in the future, alas it was not to be. A very independent man, Roger coped well after Beryl died and was helped along the way by a constant stream of visitors from far and wide. When I first met him in the 1950s he was a salesman for Aspro and later for Molyslip. This latter job often came in handy on campsites when Roger would produce a sample tube to quickly free alloy tent poles that had stuck together (they never stuck again!). In the sixties, together with Beryl, we climbed many of the classic routes in Wales, almost always traversing a mountain before the end of the day. Particular favourites of theirs were Red Wall and Avalanche on Lliwedd and the Direct Route on Glyder Fach, a 300 ft hard severe that they never tired of repeating; also the array of routes on the East Face of Tryfan and in the Pass. The Romsdal area of Norway and the Dolomites were also special places for them. The first mention of Roger with the Oread was on the Marsden to Rowsley walk in 1954 when Jack Ashcroft, Mike Moore, Clive Webb and Geoff Gibson also attended. Roger became Oread Newsletter editor in 1961 and Honorary Secretary in 1964-65. Years earlier Roger had attended the Nottingham High School along with Bob Pettigrew, surprisingly, both made mountains their way of life and both joined the Oread. Roger and Beryl were also members of the M.A.M., The Ski Club of Great Britain and Derby Ski Club. They took up skiing in the sixties and soon became proficient, with help from their friend and ace skier Dougie Godlington. Both became instructors and organised groups to the Alps for many years as well as helping out the Derby Ski Club whenever they could with tows etc., along with others such as Dave and Pam Weston, Derek and Pat Carnell, Pete Janes, Pat and Pete Morley, Ted and Beryl Upton etc. Eventually in the late sixties they achieved their life's dream by opening a Mountain Sportshop in Nottingham, followed by another in Leicester. For the next 25 years or so climbing at the weekends was not possible so we all saw less of them. They did however donate prizes generously to the Annual Dinner raffles and many Oreads joined them on ski holidays. When both shops closed in the late nineties, they came back into the Oread fold, having made many new friends both in business and in climbing, especially Steve and Julie Bennett and Gray Richmond. Roger and Beryl started to come on cycling trips with us older Oreads and on one ride they brought along their great friend Lugi. This ride involved cycling along the Tamworth Canal, under Spaghetti Junction to the Gas Street Basin in the centre of Birmingham. Torrential rain was the order of the day, the tow path became a sea of mud, lunch was fine but our clothes were steaming. During the journey a bike skidded and Pearl's head hit a handrail breaking two teeth; the rain intensified but Nev's wife shook her head and carried on. Three years later at Beryl's funeral Lugi came over. "I remember you" he said, "that ride we did with the Oread I will never forget, it's the hardest ride I have ever done!
Roger and Beryl introduced many young people to the joys of mountaineering, two in particular stand out, Des Hadlum and Doug Scott (Des was around 15 at the time). They were steered towards the Oread instead of the Summit or Rock and Heather (the other main climbing clubs in the Derby/Nottingham area). Both Des and Doug became top climbers and lifelong friends of the Turners and also many of us in the Oread. I will always remember Roger for his determination to make the best of his illness; he never complained, was always cheerful and forward looking. He attended several of this year's indoor meets and really enjoyed them, especially the one by Mick Fowler on the Himalaya and the Picos Europa by Steve Christian and Richard Hopkinson. Our last ride with Roger was on a warm September day last year (for various reasons he was not able to ride after that). We rode from Beeston to Holme Pierrepoint when he had an oxygen cylinder on his back and another in his pannier, as a spare, having filled them up in his garage that morning. We sat in the sun as the canoes and rafts twisted and turned down the whitewater course (layed out many years ago by among others our own Ernie Phillips). Roger chatted away to Mick and Gill, Colin and Uschi, Tony Smith and Gerry Shaw. He told me on the ride back how much he had enjoyed it all and how he hoped the weather would remain warm so he could cycle the following week. Unfortunately it never happened. He is together now with his soulmate Beryl and they will still inspire all who knew them for many years to come. Gordon Gadsby
Stoney Middleton is perhaps the finest crag in the Peak district and amongst the best in the country. Now I realise that there may be some doubters who would offer other candidates for the crown but this is a climbing truth. The combination of classic routes, seasoned with a sprinkling of sandbags, and stories blurring into legend means that this crucible of British climbing should remain the default option for a great adventure. Friday night. No one is keen enough to brave the showers. I park up in the lay-by and trudge up the track in the drizzle. Minus Ten wall is perfectly dry of course. There is a lad already hard at work and we exchange pleasantries. I warm up and buckle down to it. Soon I'm alone. The rain falls heavier now but I remain dry. I build a small pile of sticks, each one signifying a double pass of the traverse. Now I start tossing the sticks, counting down until my penance is done and I can dash to the Moon. Did I mention the Moon? A fine pint (of Lakes beer strangely enough) and the perfect place to lick your wounds after a mauling, or, more rarely, celebrate your success. One of my favourite stories is from the 1986 guide. The local lads are racing for a route on Windy Ledge. Sprinting along the narrow walkway below the routes, they get a bit carried away and someone ends up over running the end of the ledge. Next time you're up there, have a gander at that drop. Ouch. Anyway, old school climbers being hard, the victim picked himself up and headed for the Moon (did I mention the Moon? Nice beer.) Apparently he looked up during his game of darts as the ambulance passed by. Froth (VS) boasts perhaps the best belay in the Peak. You've done your bit and struggled or cruised up the steep crack on the first pitch. The runners for the belay are bomber whether you choose to use the ancient metal spike or not. Sit back on the comfy block and snap some shots of your leader as she balances out across the dramatic traverse. There is plenty of gear, even if you refuse to use expanding devices on moral grounds, and the position is superb. Perhaps Rockfax has it right and Stoney is a crag which climbers will visit at different stages in their climbing career. Just out of school? There are a hatful of routes which offer much more of an experience than your average gritstone VS or HVS. Combine both pitches of Padme (HVS) or Gabriel/Pearly Gates (VS) and you will have a fine adventure with great positions and a little spice. Looking for something a little more testing? Dead Banana Crack (E1) is a fantastic introduction to the technical side of limestone climbing with perfect protection. The classic lower grade routes starting from Windy Ledge offer brilliant climbing and a gobsmacking position: tick Scoop Wall, Dies Irae, Flakes Direct, Windhover and Armageddon and you will have bagged ten of the finest E points available. I've been on Scoop Wall on at least three occasions and those bulges don't get any less intimidating. Once again the gear is bullet proof, the position mind jellying and the climbing exquisite. Jerry Moffatt and Andy Pollitt learnt their trade at Stoney and it doesn't seem to have done them any harm. I like Moffatt's story of stripping to his underpants to save weight in order to get the first ascent of some hideous boulder problem. Looking at the state of some of today's boulderers I'm not sure that all that much has changed. Some of the 80's hard men lived off the dole and dossed in the Stoney wood shed. You don't see so much of that now, or do you? A chilly evening in April. I'm much too relaxed and John Peel (E2, and named after the second's abortive attempts to lead the route) looks steep. I've been smart and traversed the bottom of the crag, done pull ups and run around to get the blood flowing. Impaled on the crux, my arms feel like jelly. I step down but I'm not getting anything back. A little further down. My attempts at a rest are getting more contorted and less effective. Another few moves down and I'm stood on the ground. Dave raises an eyebrow and says nothing. I untie and jog around to clear the pump. Next go, the crux feels easy and I pick my way carefully up the top wall with a wide smile. Tom Proctor owned Stoney for over a decade. He bagged every significant first ascent and saw off the challenge from far and wide. Rumours of slightly obsessive behaviour cannot besmirch a fantastic record of achievement. Our Father in 1967 was years ahead of its time - the crux is probably V5 in new money! Check out his cover shot from Crags magazine in the 70s. You can almost hear the pop as his tendons go. Gabe Regan pinched the classic test piece of Bitter Fingers from under Proctor's nose, but not before he'd tested the landing from 30 feet. There are some pretty hard routes at Stoney too of course. I've covered the ground on a few of them and let's just say there is plenty to go back for and plenty of room for improvement! I have been climbing on and off for twenty years but I think I learnt more in one day at Stoney than in all that time messing around on gritstone. If you're still not convinced try Joe Brown's fine route from 1950, Morning Crack (S), the jamming test piece of Minus Ten (VS) or the butch Carl's Wark Crack (E2). A seasoned gritstoner will feel right at home! Roger Gibbs
There are plans afoot for a skiing trip next February. We will be going over February half-term (Feb 13th-20th 2010) and probably staying in catered chalets. The venue is still being discussed. If anyone would like to join us, then please get in touch. Simon Pape
Enclosed with your newsletter is the invite to this year's annual dinner night. This year we will celebrate the club's 60th anniversary. The dinner will be held at the New Bath Hotel at Matlock Bath. The menu choice form is also included. Please complete the form and post to me together with payment by no later than Monday 2nd November. All cheques will be cashed shortly after the event. This year, costs have been kept to a minimum to encourage as many people as possible to attend. The cost of £22 per person includes starter, main, dessert and tea/coffee, which is very good value. Accommodation is available at the hotel. The cost is £45 per person, which includes breakfast. Please state that you are attending the Oread Dinner when booking. This year our speaker is Richard Mayfield. Richard has been a professional climber for over 20 years. More details about Richard and his ventures can be found at http://www.theorangehouse.net/. If anyone has any questions please call me.
The winner will grace the front of the annual dinner menu. In recent years there have been some excellent submissions. All entries to be in by 2nd November. Either digital or ye olde worlde style photographs are fine (via mail or email)
Hint: pictures, which have space for text have been winners in the past. Neil & Tracey Weatherstone will judge, and the judges' decision will be final!!
Rumours abound regarding the outcome of Pettigrew's Proxy at the BMC AGM. Malicious suggestions are circulating. Some say that due to a prior commitment at the UIAA Burnishing, Strength, Hardness, and Identification of Tent Pegs subcommittee, Bob's attendance at the BMC was crucially delayed. Laden with many proxy votes, garnered from across the globe, it is said he failed to attend! Is this correct? The recent diplomatic incident when the Queen was unable to attend the D-Day Commemoration apparently because of a diary commitment at the Epsom Derby raises the obvious question of whether the true issue was the absence of a formal and embossed invite? Please can the committee establish the truth and quell these rumours.
Please note that hut fees should always be paid to me and no one else.WOULD THE MEMBERS WHO HAVE STAYED AT OUR HUTS OVER THE PAST FEW MONTHS AND HAVE NOT PAID THEIR HUT PLEASE DO SO ASAP, Colin Hobday.